Blankstock Lining

Liner paper (also called blankstock or lining paper) is an unprinted paper hung horizontally under the finish wallcovering. It bridges hairline cracks, evens out the texture of skim-coated plaster or old painted drywall, and gives the top paper a consistent absorbency so paste dries at the same rate everywhere. The result is fewer telegraphed flaws and a top layer that lays flatter with less risk of bubbling or grinning seams.

Liners are graded by weight, expressed in a number like 1000, 1200, 1400, or 2000 grade. Higher numbers mean a thicker, more forgiving sheet. Lighter grades smooth minor imperfections under standard paper; the heaviest grades are used to armor problem walls or to hang under delicate materials such as silk, grasscloth, or foils that would otherwise show every substrate defect.

The standard practice is cross-lining: the liner runs horizontally while the finish wallcovering runs vertically. Offsetting the two so their seams never stack is the whole point. When a liner seam sits directly behind a finish seam, both can open together and the joint becomes visible. Running the layers at ninety degrees guarantees the seams cross rather than align.

Stagger the horizontal liner joints too, and butt them tightly without overlapping. An overlapped liner seam creates a ridge that reads straight through the finish paper. Let the liner dry fully before hanging the top layer, or trapped moisture will cause both layers to lift.

Heavy liner also has a life of its own as a paintable surface. Hung on cracked or poorly finished walls and then painted, it hides a network of fine cracks and gives a repaint the look of sound plaster without a full re-skim. It is a common fix for older homes where settlement cracking keeps returning through paint.

New plaster is the other classic use. Fresh plaster keeps releasing moisture and can be highly alkaline for weeks, which attacks paste and finish papers. A liner installed after the plaster has cured, over a coat of size or a suitable primer-sealer, isolates the finish layer from that unstable ground.

• Match the gradeLighter grades for minor smoothing; 1400-2000 grade under silks, grasscloth, and foils.
• Plan cross-liningBuy enough to run the liner horizontally while the finish runs vertical.
• Prep the wallSize or prime bare plaster and glossy paint so the liner grips and stays put.
• Let it dryAllow the liner to dry fully before hanging or painting over it.
• Butt, never lapTight butt joints only; an overlap telegraphs a ridge through the top layer.